By Jim Langley

Thanks for the tips and humorous comments about my Tech Talk column last week on fixing tired shoes. Rest assured that those gnarly old S-Works shoes shown in the photos aren’t my only pair – they were just the perfect examples with lots of problems to explain how to fix. I especially wanted to show the frayed Boa closure.

I’d like to point out that there are actually good reasons some riders keep using senior shoes even as they become as decrepit as a teenager’s Chuck Taylors. For example:

1. It’s difficult for penny-pinchers to discard things that have served them so well and still work fine just because they’re getting old and ugly.

2. Old shoes are nice for use in bad weather conditions (do you really want to trash your newer $300 shoes?)

3. Because they have formed perfectly to your feet and are the most comfortable – a process that can take years with some new shoes.

4. And maybe the best reason: the cleat position is spot-on, whereas the new shoes’ cleats still don’t feel perfect. Cleat fitting is another process that can take much trial and error.

This week, as a follow-up, let’s look at the other half of the system, clipless pedals. They’re what lock the shoes in place and ensure an efficient pedal stroke. Here are basic tips for inspecting pedals for problems and caring for them.


On most clipless pedals, the “jaws” are the sprung plastic or metal pieces that capture the cleats to hold the feet on the pedals, optimizing pedal power. The popular exception is Speedplay road models where the jaws are actually built into the cleat rather than the pedal.

Whether on the pedal or cleat, it’s important to care for these jaws. The best way is to try to avoid walking in mud or sand, anything that can wear and jam the mechanism when you step on the pedal to click in. This is another great reason to wear rubber cleat covers when walking in cycling shoes.

Stomping the feet on the ground a few times after walking can do a decent job of knocking sand out of the cleats. Another technique is to rap the side of your foot against the side of the pedal to knock the dirt out. Or, in a worst case, scrape the cleats clean with a stick.

Walking in dirt and mud is less of an issue with recessed-cleat style clipless pedal and shoe systems. They’re designed for walking and usually even shed dirt and mud, clearing the cleat and pedal jaws as you click into the pedals. These are the perfect choice if you plan to walk a lot when you ride.

To keep the jaws working nicely, lubricate them whenever they start to feel a little tight clicking in, or if they begin to squeak or creak. Finish Line’s Pedal and Cleat Lube (developed in conjunction with Speedplay) is nice for this. If you use a thicker lube, don’t forget it’s on your shoes or you might walk into the house and trash your carpets. And be sure not to use penetrants that can loosen the screws holding the jaws to the pedals.

Speaking of these screws, when inspecting the jaws, check with the right tool to ensure that any screws securing the jaws are nice and tight. They can loosen and fall out, crippling the engagement mechanism.


Pedals can go seemingly forever with the grease put in the bearings at the factory. But it’s still wise to check them – especially if you ride in all weather conditions. Over time the grease does wear out.

The way to tell is 1) to push and pull on the pedals, feeling for play in the bearings; and then 2) to turn the pedal slowly with your fingers, trying to feel for a hydraulic resistance. If there’s no play and the pedals turn with a bit of resistance (the grease inside the bearings is what makes it feel that way), then the bearings don’t need attention.

If you can’t tell by turning the pedal whether or not there’s any hydraulic resistance, try flicking with a finger to spin the pedal on its axle quickly. If the grease is worn out inside, the pedal will spin and usually sound dry, metallic. If there’s good grease inside, it will spin a little slower and won’t make dry or metallic noises.

If you still can’t tell, you may want to remove the pedals. That way you can hold the axle between your fingers and turn it slowly. With this method you will surely feel whether the bearings are still greased, or dry. Just remember: while the drive-side pedal is standard threading (righty, tighty; lefty, loosey), the non drive-side pedal is reverse threaded. Turn it clockwise to loosen and remove it.

Tip: If you have clipless pedals mounted and removed by an allen wrench inserted in the end of the pedal axles (on the back of the crankarms), it can be difficult to remove the pedals. A cool tool that will help is Efficient Velo’s Knuckle Saver adapter.

If needed, most clipless pedals are relatively easy to regrease, which will also remove the play. The job is usually as simple as removing the axles, putting a dollop of new grease inside the pedal bodies and reinserting the axles. This forces the grease into the bearings.

To find the exact bearing servicing procedure for your brand and model of clipless pedals, refer to the maker’s website. Or search on YouTube. Many companies today provide excellent video instructions there.

Please share your own pedal inspection and maintenance tips in the comments below the Newsletter version of this article.

Jim Langley is RBR's Technical Editor. He has been a pro mechanic and cycling writer for more than 40 years. He's the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop in the RBR eBookstore. Check out his "cycling aficionado" website at, his Q&A blog and updates at Twitter. Jim's streak of consecutive cycling days has reached more than 8,000. Click to read Jim's full bio.


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