Finally ─ the secrets of building perfect
bicycle wheels have been revealed!
And you can build perfect wheels with this
easy-to-follow, illustrated, step-by-step manual from a professional wheelsmith.
Wheel Building tells you exactly how to
do it amid
a wealth of expert tips on tools, components, spoke lengths, lacing, truing,
repairing and much more -- illustrated with 89 CAD diagrams and
full-color photos that bring the information to life.
"This is the complete work. I hold
nothing back," says the author, Roger Musson. "There won't be a newer
edition because there's nothing more I can say about wheels. In just a
few minutes with this eBook you'll be on your way to building and
maintaining your own professional-quality wheels."
And you'll save money! For the price
of a cheap tire you'll learn how to build top-quality wheels for the rest of
your cycling career, using parts that cost much less than you expect.
Musson's eBook also includes details of the
wheel-building equipment he uses. As a pro he can afford to buy the best
tools, but he prefers to make his own. In a special illustrated bonus
section he shows you how make tools just like his -- a top-quality
truing stand, a nipple driver and an accurate wheel-dishing gauge that costs
nothing.
"My book is for anyone who wants to
build great wheels," says Musson. "If you already build wheels you'll
find plenty here to move you on to the next level. And if you're just
starting out, you can be confident that you'll be armed with all the
information you'll ever need to build pro-quality wheels."
Roger Musson is a professional wheel builder
with a degree in production engineering. He's based in Preston, UK, where
until recently he owned and managed the famous wheel building shop called Wheelpro.
He mastered his craft by building and maintaining precision wheels for
himself as an amateur racer and then for Wheelpro
customers and racing teams.
"Over the years I've come to know what
I like and dislike, what works and what doesn't," Musson explains.
"There's no guesswork in anything I do. I deal only with the facts. And
now I've decided to share my knowledge. Wheel
Building is the result."
The new 4th edition includes numerous
refinements and brand new information on tensiometers (used to measure spoke
tension -- do you need one?), re-tensioning wheels, the effect of nipple
length on spoke length, and how to align the hub label with the rim valve
hole for a pro look.
The following
excerpt comes from page 54 in chapter 4, "Building." In it, Musson
explains how to solve a common condition you'll encounter as you bring a
wheel to correct tension. This illustrates his writing style and the depth
of his instructions.
EXCERPT:
Spoke Twist
As you turn the wrench the nipple should tighten itself on the spoke
threads but due to friction in the threads there is the tendency for the
spoke to twist as well as the nipple tighten. The amount of twist is
dependent on the type of spokes being used, whether the threads have been
lubricated and how tight they currently are. Slender butted spokes will
twist more than the plain gauge one which is fairly resistant to twisting.
You need to be aware if the spokes are twisting
so you can compensate for it
when tightening them and then release any twist (that would otherwise remain
in the spoke).
Before turning the wrench make a mental note of the original position of
your tape flag and notice if it starts rotating in the same direction as you
turn the wrench. This shows that the spoke is twisting rather than the
nipple tightening. (See figure.)
When the flag stops
rotating there is sufficient torsional resistance in the spoke to cause the
nipple to turn (relative to the spoke) and thus tighten the spoke. At this
point you can then turn the wrench the required amount to tighten the spoke.
Release any spoke twist by turning the wrench in the opposite direction
until the flag returns to its original position. It is not necessary to tape
every spoke since the spokes will react similarly but since it is easy to do
replace the flag every couple of spokes to monitor the twist. The tighter
drive side spokes will twist more.
If you are using bladed or other profiled spokes then spoke twist is
easily visible and it is even more important that you un-twist any spokes to
maintain their correct orientation otherwise any "aerodynamic" benefits will
be wasted. Bladed spokes such as the Sapim CX-Ray need a special tool to
physically prevent them from twisting whilst you tighten them (see page
32).
In the previous building stages there will be very little spoke twist due to
the lower tension in the spokes but look out for it in the final tensioning
stage. If you suspect your spokes already have some residual twist in them
then you can use the tape flag to return them to the neutral position i.e.
when the flag rotates equal amounts one way then the other as you turn the
nipple.
