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Coach Fred's Solutions
To Road Cycling Challenges
By Fred
Matheny
Download instantly from your
RBR customer account
Tips for printing an eBook
Other eBooks by Fred Matheny
Basic Training for Roadies*
Off-Season Training for Roadies*
Spring Training for Roadies*
Supercharge Your Training*
*Included in
Fred
Matheny's Complete Book of Road Bike Training for a savings of $13.85
"It’s pretty simple to
ride a bike"
.
. . says Fred Matheny, author of these three expert "how to"
eBooks for road cycling improvement
. . .
"but it's not simple to ride a bike well."
Cycling falls
into the category of sports that are technical and somewhat complicated. You
must interact with a highly refined machine, and this interaction takes
place on roads with cars, potholes, curves, climbs, descents, wind, rain,
dogs and other riders -- just to name nine of the many complications you
might face.
In short, road cycling is full of challenges. That’s why Fred Matheny wrote
Coach Fred's
Solutions to Road Cycling Challenges, Vols. 1 and 2. In
these two eBooks and the money-saving combo edition, he troubleshoots dozens
of concerns common to most roadies.
Coach Fred's tips, advice, anecdotes and expert
insights are guaranteed to
flatten your learning curve and
help you ride much better much sooner.
EXCERPT, VOL 1: Panic
Stops
|
CHALLENGE!
You’re riding down the street
when a giant SUV suddenly pulls out from a stop sign. The shocked
driver sees you and slams on the brakes. Now the road is blocked.
Swerving won’t help. What can you do to avoid running headlong into
a sheet-metal wall? |
 |
|
With body low and weight way back,
you can
brake hard in an emergency
with much less risk
of tipping forward. |
Bike brakes are efficient.
They work great for modulating speed before a corner or on a descent. They
can stop you fast, too. But there’s a problem when that happens: The bike
slows abruptly but your body keeps going. The rear wheel lightens and the
front tire pushes into the road under the impetus of your shifting weight.
This means the front brake is more effective than the rear, which can easily
skid because there’s less weight on it.
If you apply the front brake too hard, you could
even tip over the handlebar. That’s not a good thing in any circumstances,
and when you’re trying to avoid ramming an SUV it could make the outcome
even more painful. You could be catapulted into it rather than plunk it
while almost stopped. The trick to stopping quickly is making an effective
weight shift while using the front and rear brake in concert.
SOLUTION
An ideal way to learn how to execute a panic stop is to practice on a
smooth, level grassy field. Make sure it’s one where a few thin skid marks
won’t get you in trouble. And be sure to wear your helmet and gloves.
1. Ride at about 10-12 mph and apply
both brakes. Notice how rapidly you slow and stop. Repeat, increasing
braking pressure each time until the tires skid. Apply the front brake
harder than the rear, then do the opposite. You’re getting a feel for
how your bike and body respond. You’ll notice that the harder you brake,
the more pronounced the tendency of the bike to buck you off the front.
2. Riding at the same pace, apply only the rear brake. Squeeze
the lever hard and notice how the rear wheel skids. Then apply only the
front brake. Be careful. See the difference in stopping power. If you
get good, you can make the rear wheel rise slightly off the ground and
still maintain control while the front wheel skids (only when riding in
a straight line, of course).
3. Now work on the key to safe, controlled panic stops: Getting
low and bracing with your arms to keep your weight back. This counters
the tendency of your momentum to launch you over the bar as the bike
slows abruptly. Increase speed and brake harder while at the same time
straightening your arms to push your weight back and keep it there. Your
hands should be in the hooks of the bar. Hold the crankarms horizontal
so you can brace against the pedals. Work on this till you’re able to
slide so far back that your butt is behind the saddle. If you skid, this
low, balanced position should allow you to control the bike and stay
upright.
4. Graduate to pavement in an empty parking lot. Be
careful—falling on asphalt hurts more than falling on grass. Don’t do so
much skidding that you ruin your tires, but use the drills in steps 1
and 2 to get a feel for tire adhesion on the real thing. Concentrate on
step 3 by sliding off the back of the saddle as you extend your arms and
apply both brakes hard. Practice until this technique is ingrained. Then
do it occasionally when stopping on a regular ride. No need to skid, but
pretend that SUV is right there. This will keep your panic stop honed
and ready for an emergency. Here’s hoping you’ll never have one!
Vol. 1
Combo Vols. 1&2

EXCERPT, VOL 2:
Pacing for Long Rides
CHALLENGE!
You’ve
heard that long, slow rides are crucial in the early season because
they build capillaries in your working muscles so you’ve researched
the issue and found several coaches who advocate such a regimen. This approach sounds reasonable because cycling power depends on the
delivery of oxygen-rich blood to your quads. The more capillary
density you have, the more oxygen is available to power your
muscles. But you’re confused by the other part of this “go-slow” training
prescription: you should avoid all intense efforts for the first 3
months of base building because any anaerobic work will only destroy
the newly-fledged capillaries, thus negating all the work you’ve
done. Harder efforts, some coaches argue, should be postponed until
after you’ve done at least 2,000 miles of easy spinning at the
beginning of the season. So what's the real deal?
|
Much research has been done
about
whether slow, high-volume training builds capillaries, and whether increased
capillaries improve performance. For the latter point, the evidence is
pretty firm. The more capillaries you have, the higher your VO2 max and
potential for endurance activities. Weight lifters have capillary density no
greater than sedentary folks, but endurance athletes have plentiful
capillaries to carry more oxygen to working cells.
As for whether extensive slow training builds more capillaries, it's
difficult to get a direct answer. But we know that capillarization is
proportional to VO2 max. The higher your oxygen uptake, the more capillaries
you have. So workouts that increase VO2 max are the best workouts to
increase capillaries. And guess what sort of workouts produces the biggest
gains in VO2 max? Not slow miles but rather moderately long rides with
relatively fast interval training included. The old adage that intense
workouts are the best producer of top fitness is still valid.
Peter Snell, former Olympic 800 meter running champion and now exercise
physiologist, has been at the forefront of this discussion, advocating long
workouts at a moderate pace. I heard him speak recently and his talk was
compelling, but the physiology that underlies this view seems suspect to
many observers.
There's nothing wrong with doing long, slow rides in the off-season. But
they shouldn't be your only mode of training. Keep the intensity going and
you'll be that much farther ahead come spring.
SOLUTION
-
Add
Intensity during slow rides. Your fast efforts don’t have to be
reserved for hard or long training days. When you’re on an easy,
recovery ride, try throwing in 3 sprints at about 90% effort. Simply get
out of the saddle in a moderate gear, accelerate for 10 seconds and then
spin until you’re back to your cruising speed. Don’t go all-out.
Instead, think about fluid and relaxed speed. You’ll be amazed at how
these “pick ups” will reinvigorate you on slow rides—and add a touch of
speed to your legs too.
Vol. 2
Combo Vols. 1&2

TOC:
Volume
1
|
Table of Contents About the Author Introduction
CHAPTER 1: Bike Fit and Riding Position Fit-Related Injuries Saddle Height Formulas Frame Size Threadless Headsets Leg-Length Inequality Knee Pain When Climbing Ilio-Tibial Band Pain Knee Pain after a Crankarm Change Numb or Tingly Fingers Saddle Discomfort Foot Pain ('Hot Foot')
CHAPTER 2: Basic Cycling Skills Starting Stopping Riding a Straight Line Standing Safely on a Climb Pedaling Gearing Nomenclature Thrown Chain Fast Descents Sharp Corners Panic Stops Jumping the Bike Crossing Railroad Tracks Returning to the Pavement Riding No-Hands Changing Clothes on the Roll Eating on the Bike Brushing Tires Looking Behind Rough Pavement Traffic
CHAPTER 3: Clothing and Equipment Do bib shorts have clear advantages? How can tight shoes be made to fit? Can I wear mountain bike shoes on the road? Why are floating pedals hurting my knees? How can I carry gear on a bike with no rack eyelets?
What should I look for during a test ride? What heart monitor is best? How can I fix breakdowns if I don't have tools? What's the right way to fix a flat? How can pinch flats be prevented? I broke my chain while riding. Now what? Is there a remedy for smelly synthetic clothing?
What's the right handlebar width? How should I fly with my bike? Where can I carry a frame pump? How can I apply chain lube without making a mess?
What should I carry in my seat bag? When should I replace my helmet? How can I rig a bike for unpaved roads? How can I keep my bike cleaner on wet rides?
CHAPTER 4: Nutrition Hydration in Hot Weather Sports Drinks vs. Water Pre-ride Eating Glycogen Window Sip or Gulp? Fluids in Winter Which Sports Drink is Best? Alternatives to Energy Bars Low-Carb Diets Reducing Dietary Fat
CHAPTER 5: Ailments and Injuries Cramps Cardiac Drift Pros vs. the Rest of Us Improving Riding Efficiency Heart Rate Training Zones Aging and Recovery Overtraining Declining Exercise Heart Rate Riding Slowly (on Purpose) Strength Training During the Cycling Season
Painful Legs Saddle Sores Knee Protection Intensity of Interval Training Achilles Tendon Pain Difficulty Falling Asleep Leg-Length Inequality Tapering for a Big Event Stretching Shaving
CHAPTER 6: Environmental Hazards Headwinds Rain Cold Frigid Feet Darkness Bad Road Surfaces Dogs Heat and Humidity
CHAPTER 7: Indoor Training Workout Methods
Preventing Fitness Loss Intensity or Endurance?
Reducing Sweat Beating Boredom Spinning Bikes Riding Rollers Trainer Cadence Tips for the Weight Room
Lower-Body Weight Training One-Leg Exercises
Excerpt
Vol. 1
Combo Vols. 1&2

|
|
TOC:
Volume 2
Table of Contents About the Author Introduction
How to Use This eBook
CHAPTER 1: Group Rides Rules for Pacelines Riding
in Advanced Pacelines
Double Pacelines
Rotating Double Pacelines
Echelons
Racing Packs
Learning Group Ride Customs
Catching Up to the Group
CHAPTER 2: Long Rides
Managing Food and Fluids
Pacing for Long Rides
Going Fast at the End of Long Rides
Handling Boredom on Long Rides
Gaining Weight on Long Rides
Controlling Your Pace
Completing a Long Ride on Minimal Training
CHAPTER 3: Climbing
Climbing Basics
Climbing for Big People
Choosing Cadence and Gearing
Improving Seated Power
Standing or Sitting on Climbs
Climbing Short, Steep Hills
Handling Consecutive Rolling Hills
Balancing Hills and Flats
Building Leg Strength for Climbing
Cycling at High Altitude
CHAPTER 4: Descending
Descending Position
Overcoming Fear of Descending
Preventing Bike Shimmy
Carving Consecutive Corners
Surviving Switchbacks
CHAPTER 5: Sprinting
Sprinting Technique
Preventing Front-Wheel Hop
Preventing Rear-Wheel Hop
Sprinting Out of a Group
Sprinting in Wind and Hills
CHAPTER 6: Cornering
Learning to Countersteer
Choosing a Good Line
Reading a Corner
Cornering in a Group
CHAPTER 7: Time Trialing
Time Trialing for Non-Racers
Choosing a Bike for Time Trialing
Warming Up for Time Trials
Getting a Good Start
Overcoming Wind and Hills
Mastering the Turnaround
Drinking While Time Trialing
Attaining a More Aero Position
Training for Time Trial Success
Using Longer Crankarms for Time Trials
Excerpt
Vol. 2
Combo Vols. 1&2

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